『飼い喰い――三匹の豚とわたし』—愛情かけて育てて喰う。

しかし、豚は豚である。今も昔も変わらない。飼えばかわいく愛らしく、食べれば美味しい。


世界中の屠殺現場を見てきた著者。
牛、豚、ヤギ、馬、羊などが殺され、解体され肉になっていく現場を見てきました。
しかし、屠畜場に運ばれてくる前に家畜がどのような生活をしてきたのかは、知りませんでした。
どうやって生まれてくるのか、何を食べているのか、農家はどう育てているのか。

豚の一生を知りたい。

そういった欲求から、「じゃあいっちょ買ってみっか」と3匹の豚を飼うことを決意。
それぞれに「夢」「秀」「伸」という名前をつけて、大事に育て、最後に食べる、という何とも豪快な一冊。

話は、畜魂祭から始まります。
畜魂祭とは、どうやら屠殺した動物たちを弔う、法要のようなもの。
屠殺場勤務の方や、農家の人たちが喪服に身を包んで参席します。

そこには、お墓のようにいくつかの碑が立っています。
畜魂碑、と言うそうです。

ちなみに畜魂碑を建てるという文化を持つ国は、日本の他にない。いや、探しているのだが、いまだ見つからない。台湾の台北市北投畜の市場跡で畜魂碑を見つけたけれど、それは植民地支配時代に日本人が「無理矢理」建てたものだ。

人間が食べるために育て、殺した動物を、人間が弔う。
はじめに、「食べる、とはどういうことなんだろう」という疑問を覚え、その疑問を抱えたまま読み進めることになります。

これまで屠畜されていく豚を何千頭、ひょっとしたら一万頭は見たかもしれない。人の手によって死んでいく豚を見て、ひどいショックを受けたことはなかった。むしろどんどん機械的に捌かれていく豚を見て、ショックを受け、口もきけなくなっている人を冷ややかに見ていた。屠畜場に来る豚は、元気に肉として育った豚で、生体検査も合格した上で、つぶされる。人が決めたとはいえ、肉豚としての生の目的をまっとうに果たしたものたちだ。そこに余計な感情を差し挟むのは、ナンセンスだと思っていた。

僕も、この本を読むまで、似たような考えを持っていました。
人は、いや動物は、他の動物を食べなければ生きていけない。
それはとても当たり前のことだし、仕方のないこと。
自分が食べる動物に情を持つことは、自分の「食べる」という行為に責任を持っていないような感覚がありました。

また、僕たちは、「食べる」という行為はどこか神聖なものだと思っているんではないでしょうか。

とはいえ現在は、アメリカやヨーロッパをはじめとする多くの経済発展国に住む人々が、動物の愛玩と食肉利用の境界には、堅固な壁があると信じこんでいるようにも思える。自分だって屠畜を取材するために各地を訪ねる以前は、そこに明確な境界があると信じていた。しかしそれはほんとうに不動の壁なのだろうかと、取材を重ねるうちに思うようになっていた。

今多くの人が厳然と信じているペットと家畜の境界を、私はあえて曖昧にしてみたい。名を呼んで、その動物に固有のキャラクターを認めて、コミュニケーションをしたうえで、殺して食べてみたかった。数十年前の欧米の小規模農家でも、今も経済発展が遅れ、辺境といわれる地域の農家でも、ごく普通になされていた(いる)はずのことではないか。

食べる、という行為は僕たちから切っても切り離せませんが、「食べるために殺す」という感覚は、僕たちにとって遠いものとなっています。
時代を経るにつれ、その距離は長くなっていっているようです。

そして、食べることや、食べるために殺すということ、殺される家畜を、神聖な匂いのするものにしてしまっているんじゃないか。
そんなことを読んでいて思いました。
いただきます、というのは命をいただくという意味であり、そこに感謝の意を持つのは何らおかしいことではありません。

しかし、僕たちに、「自分たち人間が返り血を浴びながら殺している」という感覚はあるでしょうか。
その残酷さ、というより、生々しさを実感しているでしょうか。

食べるという行為を、どこか棚に上げていたんじゃないかと、思いました。
ただ、殺すという行為に直接的に関わっていない以上、実感が湧かないのは至極当然のことだとも思います。

家畜を殺すということ、家畜を生かすということ。
僕たちはどのようにそれを決めているのでしょうか。

周りの反応を聞けば聞くほど、結局は何がかわいそうで何がかわいそうでないか、何を食べて何を食べないかという基準のもとになるものが、わからなくなる。結構いい加減な、単なる習慣に基づいているだけにすぎないのではと思わされる。なのにほとんどの人はそれを絶対的な確固たるものだと思い込んでいる。時にはタブーであるかのように、騒ぐ。実に不思議だ。

国の間での食の議論は、身近な話題ですね。
捕鯨などは日本人が当事者の問題です。

日本で牛肉が一般的に食べられるようになったのも、明治時代からです。
食文化は国だけで固定されているわけではなく、歴史の過程でも変わっていく可変的なものです。

豚をペットのように飼ってみると、養豚家の方達でさえ知らなかった豚の生態が分かってきます。

「何やってんの、夢!」と言うと、「ゴッ」とふてぶてしい答が返って来る。そう、あまりにも叱られる回数が多いためなのか、夢は、自分の名前まで認識していた。

そもそも豚という動物に触れる機会がない僕には、豚の生活自体がとても興味深かかったです。

内澤さんは、ご自身でイラストも描かれるので、エッセイがより親密なものに感じられてきます。

飼い喰い

しかし、豚の去勢をイラストともに描くシーンは、男子として血の気が引く光景でした。

この本に出会って、一番考えたことは、「豊か」とはどういうことなんだろうか、ということです。

内澤さんは、愛情をこめて育てます。かわいがります。そして、食べるために殺します。

愛情をかけて育てたものを殺す。

これは、矛盾することでしょうか。
愛情をかけて育てた分、豚を出荷する時には内澤さんの胸の中では様々な思いがめぐります。

しかし、そうして事務的に豚を肉の塊にできないからこそ、自分の中で思いがせき止められるからこそ、食べるということ、ひいては「食」が色濃いものになるんではないでしょうか。

「健やかに育て」と愛情をこめて育てることと、それを出荷して、つまり殺して肉にして、換金すること。動物の死と生と、自分の存在とが(たとえ金銭が介在したとしても)有機的に共存することに、私はある種の豊かさを感じるのだ。

『飼い喰い』に感心してしまうのは、この本が決して重くないところです。
扱っているテーマは軽いものではありませんし、内澤さんが実際に行っていることも衝撃的に見えます。

しかし、文体は決して重苦しくなくて、「食についての問題提起」というスタンスでもありません。
あくまで、「気になるから飼って食べてみた」という、テンポの良さを持っています。

それでも僕たちに突き刺さってくる場面は多く、内澤さん自体も飼い喰いにたいする思いは強いです。

この本は、重いのではなく、熱い本だと言えるでしょう。

すでに、屠畜という、多くの人にとって衝撃的な現場を見てきた内澤さんなので、読者がうろたえてしまうようなシーンも時に淡々と進みます。
しかし、そのような強力な地盤ができている内澤さんが、思いを巡らし揺れる様は、非常に強く読み手に響いてきます。

愛情をかけて豚を育てる。
その豚を食べる。

道中、そして最後に、どのような思いをもって彼女が自分の口に豚肉を運ぶのか。
その希有な経験を、追体験させてくれる本書に感謝です。

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