檀流クッキング

料理の手触り。

また、私の同化性というか、適応性というかは、人並みはずれているようで、ロシア人と一緒にいればロシアのものを食い、朝鮮人と一緒にいれば朝鮮のものを食い、日本のオフクロのみそ汁でなくっちゃ、という帰巣本能に乏しいようだ。というより、オフクロの味をよその味と思っているわけで、私が真ん中であり、私が移動すれば、私の移動先の味が私の味だと思い込んでしまうようだ。


いい料理本とはどんなものでしょうか。

おいしい料理の作り方が書いてある本。
簡単に作れる料理のレシピが書いてある本。

この本はそのどちらも兼ね備えていますが、何より、料理が作りたくなる本です。

世界を放浪した著者が、様々なレシピを新聞で連載し、それをまとめたもの。
ちなみにこの本、1975年に出された代物です。

どのレシピも数ページで終わる簡素な構成。書き方どころか、料理の作り方までとってもシンプル。
分量だとか用意する具材だとか、そんなものは一切リスト化されていません。

流れるように、テンポよく、「こうして、こうして、こうすればほら、できあがり。うん、うまい」。
そんな調子で様々な料理が出来上がっていくもんだから、あれ、料理ってこんなに簡単なのか、と自分でも出来てしまうんじゃないかと思う。そしてそれは、錯覚じゃない。

包丁で具材を切っていくように、檀の言葉はサクサクとこちらの不安や気構えを削り取っていく。

梅干だの、ラッキョウだの、何だか、むずかしい、七めんどうくさい、神々しい、神がかりでなくっちゃとてもできっこない、というようなことを勿体ぶって申し述べる先生方のいうことを、一切効くな、檀のいうことを聞け。
梅干しだって、ラッキョウだって、塩に漬ければ、それで出来上がる。嘘じゃない。

アジの身をいれたスリ鉢の方は、スリコギでトントンつき、アジの身をよくほぐし、ほぐし終わったら、丁寧に遠火であぶったみそも、残らずそのスリ鉢の中に加えなさい。
みそとアジとゴマの割合はどうするかって? どうだっていい。アジとみそを半々にし、ゴマを一割ぐらいのつもりでやってみてごらんなさい。

「適当に」「好きにしなさい」。
こんな言葉が溢れている。
「好きにしていいよ」という言葉に、びくついてしまう人も多いはず。僕もそうです。
本当にこれでいいのかな? これで間違ってないのかな?
恐る恐る手を加え、味見をする。

でもそれって、料理との対話だ。
こんなもんでどうだろう、いやまだ塩辛い。コミュニケーションの応酬。
最初はぎこちなくても、次第に気心の知れた関係になってくる。

まるで、レシピ集じゃなくて短編集です。
切って焼いて煮て食って。
結末は全部一緒。うまい、というハッピーエンドで終わる。

この本を読んでいると、「なんだ、料理なんてたいしことなかったのか」という気持ちと、「料理ってなんて素晴らしいんだろう」という気持ちがないまぜになります。

どんな関係であれ、死ぬまで僕たちと料理の縁が切れることはないでしょう。

ここは少し勇気だして、片意地はらず、料理に歩みよってみようと思います。
交わす言葉は少なくても相手のことが分かる。
そんな老夫婦のような関係を料理と築いてみたいものです。

そして、檀流クッキングを再現した素晴らしいサイトを見つけました。
とても丁寧につくられていて、料理と制作過程の写真が、料理意欲の火をを強めてくれます。
檀流クッキング完全再現

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